Friday, February 15, 2013

Goodbye India

Things I am missing:
There are a few obvious things that I knew I would miss when I moved to India.
  • Playing with dogs
  • Peanut butter
  • Good beer
  • Everyone speaking the same language
  • Being away from my family for Christmas
I prepared for this as best I could. I told myself I couldn't pet street dogs, and decided to count them every morning instead. I brought two jars of Peter Pan reduced fat crunchy peanut butter, and my mom brought two more jars when she came to visit :) I accepted that I might not drink for 2.5 months, which isn't a bad thing. I was ready to feel lost and left out by the language barrier, and I was pleasantly surprised to see how many people in Delhi spoke English. My family held a great party before I left, and I saw almost all my relatives.

There are other things that I didn’t consider before I got here, and along the way I found myself missing:
  • Political conversations: after GW, I'm used to talking politics on a regular basis, and I missed talking with Justin, BrandonB, my mom, and other people about the stories I read in WaPo daily.
  • Seeing a familiar face: I didn't know how much I missed this until one of my professors stopped by Delhi right before Christmas. I was surprised to realize that I hadn't seen a single person I knew in almost a month. That's never happened before - going to college, I had met my roommate at a summer open house; moving to Boston I had great friends from high school and undergrad. A month later, I saw my mom and her friend when they came to India with a tour group.
  • A chance to say goodbye to Minnie, our wonderful miniature dachshund, who had to be put to sleep in late January after 17+ years of chasing bunnies, cuddling, and barking incessantly.

I've had a great time, but I am so ready to go home.

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Street Dogs

These are some of my dogs that I counted every day walking to work:

A few blocks from the house where I stayed, I would see the first pack of dogs. Patch was a regular, but he wasn't there on this day.

Carefully crossing the busy street

This guy slept in the cart on a regular basis. The owner would leave some rags in the corner and he would curl up and sleep.

No dogs, but view from the RR overpass that I had to walk on the few occasions that a train was on the tracks. The dogs usually scampered across the tracks just like everyone else.

This one slept near a park on the Jangpura side of the tracks.

The one with the white patch is Stoner, my favorite pup. I passed him almost every single day, a few blocks from work. He squinted in the sunlight and never seemed to be fully aware of the noise around him, hence the name. Stoner usually had 1-3 buddies sleeping near him.

Typical Indian street dog - yellow with short fur and long ears that didn't quite stand up.

Showing some wear and tear from a rough life on the street.

Indian dogs spend all their lives in the dust.

Wandering through Central Market for some shopping.

Mama dog in a park near my house. She looks part boxer.

Her lively pup, who only stood still to drink water. The boys in the park chased her relentlessly.

It's hard to be a sleepy puppy.

Valentine's Day + last week at work = breaking my rule and cuddling with street puppies!


Thursday, February 7, 2013

All over India in 9 days


I've done more in the last week and a half than I usually do in months. Last Monday I waited impatiently for the travel agency to confirm my waitlist train ticket to Asansol. The next day I was off on a train all by myself, traveling 14 hours overnight to the state of West Bengal. Asansol is the second-biggest city in WB, with 1.2 million people, and is fast-growing.

After 12 straight hours of fact-finding, enjoying chhena sweets with the ANM and the health activist.

In Asansol, I met up with an experienced health advocate (after a scary 6 hours in the city when her train was delayed!) I managed to get a hotel room by myself and spent the extra time knitting and reading. We were there because two months ago, two women died during a sterilization camp. Here's the information  we had when we headed to the hospital:

DURGAPUR, 14 DEC: Two tribal women died today post ligation surgery  at a rural block hospital in Asansol today. Chandmoni Hembram of Kalipathar village and Radharani Tudu of Gaurangadihi village, who underwent ligation at Kelejora Block Primary Health Centre along with 12 other tribal women, died while they were taken to Asansol District Hospital in the late afternoon.

The Asansol administration apprehended that the casualties might provoke the tribals residing in the villages surrounding the rural hospital to unleash attack on the block medical officer and his family. The ADM, Asansol, Mr Jayanta Aikat said: “We have asked police to beef up security surveillance across the hospital area to prevent any untoward situation.”

Tribal housewives queued up at the Kelejora Block Primary Health Centre in Baraboni, about 15 km from Asansol town today where a mass ligation camp was organised. In all 14 women from the adjoining villages underwent tubal ligation surgery at the Kelejora Hospital today.

Chandmoni Hembram and Radharani Tudu, both aged around 40 were also taken to the camp and according to the hospital authorities:
“Their cases became complicated as both complained of gradual deterioration within an hour of operation.” The ADM, Asansol, Mr Jayanta Aikat said: “The medical officers told me that both the women were physically weak, so the rural hospital referred them immediately to the Asansol District Hospital.” On their way to the hospital, both the women died triggering panic among the medical staff. The bodies were kept under supervision at the Asansol Hospital for the night. MLA, Baraboni, Mr Bidhan Upadhyaya said: “Baraboni is a block having 43 villages under eight panchayats and the tribal and downtrodden mass contribute a significant percentage of the demography. The casualties, besides making ligation a fear factor among the backward communities, would also create tension in the area.”
Tubal ligation is a surgery performed to block woman’s fallopian tubes for permanent birth
control.

The district administration has engaged the BDO, Baraboni to table a report on the matter at the earliest.

Taken from: https://kractivist.wordpress.com/2012/12/17/india-2-tribal-women-die-post-ligation-surgery-westbengal-vaw/

Can you imagine this happening in the U.S.? In Boston, or in DC, with all the fantastic hospitals? Women dying at a sterilization camp, and the first reaction is to get the police ready in case the tribal people protest?! Obviously, HRLN wanted to investigate what went wrong and publicize it so this tragedy doesn't occur again. (It's also a little crazy to think they sent me off on a fact-finding based on nothing more than the above report).


I volunteered to go because I wanted to see more of India and I felt comfortable interviewing doctors and hospital administrators after my first fact-finding to Uttarakhand. With the expert translation skills of the health activist and an auxiliary nurse midwife (ANM), sometimes across 3 languages, we were able to talk to administrators, the doctor who performed the sterilizations, and the Santal tribal families of the women who had died (pictured above).

My wonderful guide Preenita, a first year attorney in the HRLN Kolkata office.
 After 2.5 days in Asansol, I hopped on a coach bus (similar to Bolt or Megabus) to Kolkata, only 3.5 hours away. After discussing the trip to Asansol with my supervisor, we both agreed that I might as well go to Kolkata, the capitol of WB and the third largest city in India. It was an opportunity for me to see a beautiful city and also to do some additional fact-finding. I met with a recent law grad and a law student who acted as my translators and we interviewed pregnant women and women with infants. For three long days, we traveled to slums, railroad stations, highway underpasses, and sidewalks lining the streets of Kolkata. As expected, there weren't nearly enough shelters for women and families, but Kolkata did have 35 shelters, far more than the 0 shelters the city government had listed in last year's report.


After 3 days in Kolkata, I got on another long train - 20 hours to Agra, home to the Taj Mahal. Thanks to the Big Bang Theory DVDs Justin had mailed me, it wasn't too bad and I had a small upper bunk to myself with a privacy curtain. I was able to coordinate my trip to catch the tail end of my mom's stay in Agra, and I was able to enjoy dinner, a good night's sleep, and my first bath in months in her hotel.


I went to the Taj and Agra Fort, and then had an uncomfortable ride home on a government-run bus after my coach bus was cancelled.

Overall, an amazing but exhausting trip, and now I have less than a week left!